Batik Course

On Saturday we took a trip to Komar Batik, Bandung, for a very basic course in batik. For those unfamiliar with the idea, batik uses wax and dye to create beautiful, intricate patterns for cloth and clothes. The very old traditional methods have been practised in Indonesia (and Malaysia) for centuries, but there's a resurgence in popularity at the moment.

Komar Batik is in the north of Bandung and is a pretty forward-looking kind of place. Not only are the batiks produced exceptional and amazing, but you can go and look around the place to get an idea of how the items are produced. Or just check out the showroom, which is full of beautiful cloth, shirts and bags. If you're really into it, which we are, then you can also do one of a number of course packages (check out Wisata Batik for more information).

The first thing to do is choose your stamp. The stamps are made from copper because of its great thermal properties. More on this later. Komar have over 4,000 batik stamps, which last for a very long time, maybe upwards of 20 years. They begin life as pencil-drawn designs on paper, which are then painstakingly turned into copper stamps by very skilled craftsmen, patiently sticking strips of copper into a wooden frames. Komar use recycled copper, from old cables. The designs apparently take months to construct, and looking at the intricate designs I can really believe it. There is an enormous range of stamps to choose from, from the traditional, localised designs from all over Java, through animal and plant designs, and to more modern designs like aeroplanes, bicycles, Vespas and Android symbols.

Stamps are slowly heated in a bowl of paraffin wax suspended over a flame. Once the stamp is up to temperature, it is removed and the excess wax flicked off. It's at this point that your clothes get waxy. The stamps are tough and heavy, so the stampers tend to be pretty big, strong chaps who do this like it's nothing (I don't think I could do it all day). The aim is to press the stamp down smoothly but firmly onto your cloth, and remove it quickly and vertically upwards to avoid smudging. It can be a big difficult to do all of this at once. Hopefully the end result will be thin, dark, consistent lines with wax on both sides of the cloth.

With a short course you do only one colour, so the next step is the canting (pronounced chanting). You're essentially just pouring wax onto your cloth in a controlled way - adding bits to the design maybe. Some designs are only done with canting too, i.e. with no stamps, and these tend to attract a premium. This is because canting is really time consuming. You dip the pens into a bowl of wax, to fill the bowl. Next you must remove it carefully to ensure you don't spill it, then wipe the drips on a plastic mat covering your legs. Holding your cloth in your other hand, at an angle to the horizontal, whilst holding the pen slightly upwards, you can use the pen to create lines and dots on your design. Patience is necessary here, because you have to allow the wax time to permeate to the other side, otherwise your dye will just come through. When you feel the heat on your other hand you know it's ready. A steady hand and slow pace is necessary for the beginner (you may come away with slightly scolded hands).

Traditionally this role is fulfilled by women, who supposedly have more patience for the fiddly batik designs. This is probably true. They sit in circles around the bowls of wax, and it seems pretty sociable and relaxed, which is definitely a good thing considering the size and intricacy of some of the designs.

Next, the dyeing process. Your design is soaked in water then dunked in the dyes. Some colours need two different dyes, but maybe not in the combinations you might expect - blue, for example, is made from a yellow and a green dye. Your cloth goes from plain white to the brilliant colours you see in batik cloth, and the transformation is rapid and quite impressive. The wax is still on at this point and takes on a bronze hue, which looks really attractive. The dyed cloth is then dunked in hot water with soda ash, which you definitely don't want to get on your skin. The wax comes off and you're left with your stamped and canted design in white on a strong, bright colour. Suddenly you've got batik!

The cloth used is very thin and so drying it takes no time at all. Plenty of time to browse through the shop, though - designs from all over Java, either in cloth form or ready-made into pretty snazzy clothes. Having seen the work that goes into making the cloth, it's exceptionally good value, and the quality is incredible. Best of all, you get to help an up-and-coming batik business that's not only keeping the tradition alive, but modernising all the time and even producing new designs, something uncommon in batik manufacture. And to boot, a piece of cloth with your own design on, and the skills to make it again. Well worth the trip!

Rumah Mode

Rumah Mode is the most famous factory outlet in a city famed for its shopping. As a result it’s very popular with locals and tourists alike. One advantage is that you won’t stick out like a sore thumb here as there are plenty of Westerners who come looking for bargains. It’s located in Setiabudi, a suburb of Bandung which is reasonably fancy, on the left-hand side of the road as you drive up the hill.

Remember going to clothes shops in the UK and seeing labels saying “Made in Indonesia”? Chances are, that item was made in Bandung. It’s a major city for clothing factories, and as a result, factory outlet stores. Firsts and seconds are massively reduced here – for example, a Ralph Lauren shirt advertised on the label as being worth USD80 was about IDR160.000, or about £10 (Oct 2012). Now I don’t pretend to be interested in fashion, but they are good quality clothes for the price of poor quality clothes in the UK. I was told that Rumah Mode is actually pretty expensive, and the really cheap places are on the way into the centre. But it’s an experience to visit anyway, and well worth it for total bargains.

First you must take an angkot to the McDonalds junction on Jl. Ir. H. Juanda (Dago Street). Get off here. Take care crossing the road (seriously) to the McDonalds corner. Here, looking down Dago Street (not up the hill), you need to cross the road again and turn right, walking down towards the Scarlet Hotel, the nearest recognisable landmark. Now you must catch another angkot, from this side of the road. Make sure it is an angkot to Ledeng (marked Ledeng-Chiheum or Ledeng-Ciyomo). Ask (just say “Ledeng?”) if you’re unsure. Keep your eyes peeled for the big “RUMAH MODE” sign hanging over the road and shout “Kiri kiri” (left) when you see it. The driver will pull into the left. Get out and hand over a 5.000 rupiah note, and expect some change. If you’re lucky like we were a grumpy man on the passenger seat will pay for you and your ride will be free. The best thing to do is look confused and take up people’s time.

Rumah Mode is down its own little sidestreet, with bells hanging above it. It’ll probably be full of people and tour buses, too. It is full of water features and sculptures and is actually quite pleasant, if you ignore the hordes of people (admittedly this is difficult). The water features contain massive carp that I wouldn’t want to feed just in case they take your fingers, too. There is one large shop on the right, towards the end, and lots of cafes, bakeries and restaurants on the left. Apparently the restaurant here is noted for its oxtail soup, but we weren’t about to find out. Once in the shop, which is a closer approximation to hell than KL LCCT, women’s and children’s clothes are on the left, and men’s clothes are on the right. It sounds simple enough but it is pretty confusing.

All-in-all, a couple of hours wandering around Rumah Mode might be stressful, painful and very tiring, but it’s definitely a Bandung experience worth having. And remember – at least it’s not Meadowhall.

PS: Glyn’s claim that his present shopping will be over and done with in ten minutes is not bravado. He is a seriously efficient shopping machine.