Garuda Restaurant & Pedang cuisine

If you go to Rumah Mode, another interesting stopover once you’re done shopping is the Garuda (“Eagle”) restaurant, about two minutes on foot up the road. Don’t take an angkot like we did or the driver will think you’re stupid (you can see the Garuda sign from outside Rumah Mode). The most difficult part is crossing the road. Avoid crossing when motorbikes are coming (they won’t stop) but if there’re only cars coming you can stick your hand out and they’ll (probably) slow down for you. As always, be super careful because it’s a bit mental.

Garuda is a typical pedang restaurant – steep roofs, a red front and stacks of white dishes in the window containing food. It’s also supposed to be the smartest pedang resto in town. Pedang is a Sundanese Sumatran cuisine which seems to be a pretty unique eating experience, so step inside and take a seat. The waiters (who see very, very few tourists it seems) will bring a huge tray of the white dishes contain a massive array of things to try. Of course, you’re not obliged to eat (or even try) everything, as you only pay per dish, so don’t worry about running up a huge bill.

The food is very tasty but, scarily, often you have no idea what it is. The waiter will generally try to tell you but their English is pretty sketchy, even here. Most things are prawn, beef, lamb or chicken. You may be offered cow brain, which I hear is a wonderful source of protein, but also it is a wonderful source of CJD so I’d steer (ahem) well clear. They won’t be offended if you ask them to take it away (and will just go and offer it to someone who will appreciate it). Some of the food (especially the red and green sauces you get handed) are pretty spicy. Be warned that nearly everything contains meat or fish of some description, but there are quite a lot of egg, potato and vegetable dishes which are just as tasty.

When you’re done, try and let the waiter know. This isn’t always easy as they’ll just keep bringing dishes out if you’re not clear. You’re charged (I think) twice for a bowl you finish and once for a bowl you don’t finish. I imagine the unfinished food gets recycled back for other customers. For two people we had a hearty meal (I’m still full, two hours later) and were charged 270.000 rupiah (less than £20). Make sure you give a hearty terima kasih on the way out and you’re sure to garner enormous smiles.